Well the good news is that the spiling techniques which John recommends using a compass, is much easier done than read. So I was quite pleased with my efforts, although I decided to fair one station mark about 1/8" larger than the mold marks. I'm hoping that this will be a good decision, but since it is the garboard, only the fish will be my critics...
This is the spiling pattern I made in action.
The spiling pattern is articulated in 3 places, thereby allowing it to fall onto the molds without too much torture.
This is the jig with JohnB recommends for the skill saw...I used an old acrylic display stand, hence the odd glue marks on the sheet - but it came for free and worked perfectly.
Rather than nailing and screwing the planks temporarily to the keelson and molds, I screws blocks to the side of each mold station and used to clams to dry fit the garboards using clamps. Seemed to work fine and allowed me to re-position the planks until I was satisfied it was aligned to its marks.
My test attempts at cutting half lap gains....
Half lap gains...
And again, using chisel and Quangsheng block rebate plane
Dory gains for the transom, using a spoke shave. I've come to really enjoy using the spokeshave. Initially all it would do was scrape and bounce off the wood, now having persevered with it, I can make really nice shavings, and it is a real pleasure to use.
I have opted to have curved planks at the transom rather than notching the transom, so JohnB recommends to make re-leaving cuts on the underside of the end of the plank.
A short video on the garboards clamped to the molds and keelson before final attachment:
A view from the transom of the fitted garboards.
Close examination will reveal I am using straight slotted screws. This was to avoid a further 4 week delay in sourcing Frearson #10 1" screws. Although JohnB warns of the horrors of using straight slotted heads, in fact they worked out fine and I didn't have any difficulties using an electric screwdriver to send them home.
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